I see they wear footstraps nowdays.
Just getting down that face is a challenge on it's own, if you don't have a jetski to give you speed.
Usually it's a freefall, so you better have wings and real control.
The speed of these waves is out of this world, and your board vibrates like crazy.
You actually worry that it will tear itself apart, never mind the bumpy ride snapping the board in half.
The G-Forces on your legs turning at the bottom is.... heavy!
A real gas.